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Drain yogurt for an hour or overnight (optional).
Peel cucumber. Grate coarsely. Squeeze out liquid a handful at a time.
Mince serranos.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk yogurt until thoroughly blended. Stir in cucumber and black pepper.
Transfer yogurt mixture to serving bowl. Sprinkle chilies and cilantro over top.
Roast cumin seeds in small pan until fragrent. Crush with mortar and pestle. Sprinkle raita with cumin and garam masalla.
Makes 6 servings