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Do the conservators in Dartmouth College Library's Preservation Services repair books from private collections?
No, the conservators in Preservation Services can only work on items owned by the Dartmouth College Library. If you have something you would like repaired or rebound you should try to find a conservator in your area.
How can I find a conservator in my area?
Look in the yellow pages under "Book binders" for a book binder or conservator in your area. If that does not work you could contact a local college or university library for advice. If the library has a rare book room or special collections the librarian in charge may have the names of local or regional conservators. A third option would be to contact the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works (AIC). At their home page you will find a link called "Selecting a Conservator" --- this has information about selecting a conservator and how to contact AIC for a list of conservators in your area.
Does Preservation Services provide commercial binding services for students who have completed a thesis or dissertation?
The library no longer facilitates binding of theses and dissertations. If you would like to have it bound you may contact Acme Bookbinding in Charlestown, Massachusetts or Bridgeport National Bindery in Agawam, Massachusetts. The Acme web site includes a job quote form for theses binding.
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How should I pack books for long term storage?
Place the books flat in a box or on end with the spine down. Be very
careful not to distort the book when packing because if the spine is misaligned
it will take that shape and will be very difficult to straighten.
A very important consideration is where the box will be stored. The box
should be in a cool and dry place away from insects and rodents which might
eat any of the component parts of a book (i.e. paper, starch in the bookcloth,
glue). The Library of Congress web site has information about basement
and attic storage (neither are recommended) and the importance of a cool
(65-70F) and dry (45% rh) environment.
I have books with minor to major leaning. What is the best way to straighten them?
Unfortunately there is no easy remedy for this problem once it has occurred.
Prevention is the best solution and keeping your books upright with the
proper support on either side will work to stop this problem.
Sometimes if the leaning is not too bad, flexing the binding in the opposite
direction will lessen the problem. With worse cases of leaning, this is
usually not successful. The best way to stop this is to have the book rebound,
which can be rather expensive. Only by removing the binding and the layers
which stiffen the spine of the textblock, then straightening the book out,
the relining the spine and reattaching the cover can you be sure the book
will stand straight.
If you are interested in pursuing this route look in the yellow pages under
"Bookbinders" to find specific names.
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Is it possible to purchase a paper copy of the Simple Book Repair Manual?
The Simple Book Repair Manual was created by members of Preservation Services,
Dartmouth College Library. It was created on the web, no paper version exists.
Permission is granted for copying and redistribution as long as this copyright
notice is included:
Copyright 1996 the Board of Trustees of Dartmouth College, Hanover, New
Hampshire. All rights reserved.
Funding for this web site was provided by the National Park Service's National
Center for Preservation Technology and Training, Natchitoches, Louisiana
and Dartmouth College Library. NCPTT promotes and enhances the preservation
of prehistoric and historic resources in the United States for present and
future generations through the advancement and dissemination of preservation
technology and training. NCPTT's Preservation Technology and Training Grants
program develops partners in non-profit organizations, universities and
government agencies throughout the United States to complete critical preservation
work and lends significant support to cutting-edge developments in the conservation
and preservation community.
What can I do about moldy books?
Web sites with relevant information:
How do I eliminate or reduce a musty odor in a book?
Our neighbors at the Northeast Document Conservation Center say this: There is no guaranteed way to remove the musty smell from old books, but there is a strategy that may be successful. This musty smell is most often noted in books that have been moldy or mildewed in the past. The first step is to create an enclosed chamber. This is most easily done by using two garbage cans, one large (with a lid) and one small. The object to be "deodorized" should be placed in the smaller can, which is then placed inside the larger can. Some type of odor-absorbing material should then be placed in the bottom of the larger can. Odor-absorbing materials to try include baking soda, charcoal briquettes (without lighter fluid), or kitty litter. The lid should then be placed on the larger can, and the chamber should be left for some time. You will need to monitor periodically to see how long the materials need to be left inside the chamber.
How would I remove spots of mildew that are on the cover of a book?
If you have mold or mildew on a book do the following: get a slightly
damp cloth and gently wipe the stop of the book working away from the
book (i.e. start at the spine side and work out towards the foredge).
Do this over a garbage can, preferably outside. The mold spores will get
into the air and if you are outside you won't be spreading the spores
into your house.
A weak solution of boric acid may also be used to dampen the cloth and
wipe off the stain.
After cleaning _throw away_ the cloth (this has mold on it, get rid of
it), and wash your hands.
Let the book dry (this shouldn't take too long because the cloth should
not be too wet) and then store in a cool, dry location. The key to avoiding
mildew and mold is a safe storage environment. You may still have a stain
but most of the spores will have been removed.
What can I do about insect damage to books?
If there is no evidence of crawling bugs or bug droppings then you may
assume the damage is old. An easy way to rid a book or papers of bugs
is to wrap in plastic and place in the freezer for a couple of weeks.
Oxygen deprivation and cold temperatures will kill the bugs.
Inspect the area where the book was stored. Look for signs of mold or
insects. Do not return the book to that area until it has been cleaned
and any hiding places for bugs have been removed.
Look in the yellow pages under "Book binders" for a book binder
or conservator in your area. If that does not work you could contact a local
college or university library for advice. If the library has a rare book
room or special collections the librarian in charge may have the names of
local or regional conservators. A third option would be to contact the American
Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works (AIC). At their
home page you will find a link called "Selecting a Conservator"
--- this has information about selecting a conservator and how to contact
AIC for a list of conservators in your area.
I have an old leather bound book that leaves a red powder on my hands whenever I touch it. What causes this and what can I do to the book to fix it?
Leather bound volumes sometimes develop red rot, a condition where the leather deteriorates into a fine powder. Red rot cannot be reversed or cured. Some solutions include replacing the leather cover or placing the book in a box so it will not leave a residue on books it is shelved adjacent to. For more ideas on how to handle a book with red rot contact a conservator.
Where can I find the supplies listed in the Simple Book Repair Manual?
These names are provided for informational purposes only and in no way should be interpreted as an endorsement of their products nor an exhaustive list of archival suppliers.
What is a common name for PVA adhesive, SOBO, or Elmer's Glue?
Technically speaking, both Sobo and Elmers are PVA based glues. For bookbinding and repair, the quality of the glue is very important. One of the most important qualities is its flexibility when dry. Elmers dries very stiff and is not recommended for binding. Sobo does dry flexible, but I'm not sure how archival (or pH neutral) it is, which is another important quality of binding adhesives. In our conservation lab we use Jade 403, which is a pH neutral PVA with a medium drying time and good flexibility. We use it for making in-house adhesive bound books which rarely if ever crack or have pages fall out. Jade is available from some art supply stores as well as bookbinding supply vendors.
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