The basic
rule of thumb is to bring nothing more than you can fit into a backpack. (The
2002 group agreed that you can get away with a wheeled suitcase, though it is
inconvenient on cobbled streets.) We would suggest carrying everything on
your back, rather than by tote or pull cart.
If a
suitcase is what you have, just try to pack light. Don’t count on smooth,
regular pavement or wheelchair-friendly curbs. In Fez, you need to keep hills
in mind as well as distance, potholes, and mule droppings. You will find
speeding cars and taxis, crazy motorcycle drivers, and horse-drawn carriages
all on the same road. In this sense, the roads are a bit perilous. For your own
safety, you’ll want to keep your eyes on the road, not on your luggage.
Basically, you will need to carry luggage when you arrive, when you travel
independently, on the group program travels, and when you depart. Also keep in
mind that you might want to bring things back from Morocco, so leave a little
space. You will be able to fit everything you need in a pack. Trust us. This
includes books, at least some of which (if not the majority) you will have to
bring with you. Library selections at the American Language Center are basic,
but local bookstores carry some cheap books published in French. (There is also
an English text bookstore and a little street market that sells used books near
the American Center. lf you’re a Spanish speaker, there is a Spanish
center, El Instituto Cervantes, which has a useful library.)
Books.
Make room for your
course books first. These can be shipped back to the U.S. at the end of your
stay. (Bring the books and tape to the post office. Enter the small building on
the left that says in Arabic tard (parcel). They will provide you with a box and
the customs forms; put the books in the box, and take them to the customs
inspector. He signs the forms, then you take them back to the desk where you got
the box, you seal it with tape and address it, then pay the postage.). Mailing
your books will probably leave your pack a bit lighter. You may want to buy a
small phrase book. The Moroccan Arabic phrase book published by Lonely Planet
is helpful and fits easily in a coat pocket. Also consider bringing a French
dictionary. ALIF will issue you a Moroccan dictionary along with your textbook.
If you have studied MSA, bring along Wehr’s Dictionary of Modern
Written Arabic. (Keep in mind that classical Arabic and Moroccan Arabic are
very different.)

Caftans and tile mosaics in Boujad.
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Computer. In addition to books,
you may benefit by bringing a laptop computer—if you are fortunate enough
to own one. If customs officials see that you are carrying one into Morocco,
however, you may be asked to have your computer recorded in your passport as
you arrive in the country, so that its export is verified on departure. This
ensures that you will not sell your computer in Morocco. Students in ’02
had no need of computers until it came time to write papers—then they
were desperate for them. Some also wished they had been able to keep their
diaries in the computer. It is something of a hassle to bring one, but when you
want one, you want one. You will need to think about printing, and/or a way to
transfer your files to a computer linked to a printer. Flash-memory drives can
work well for this. For e-mail, check out the College web-based email programs
before you go. The ’02 group went daily to one of several cyber-cafes
around town and paid 5-7 dirhams to check their blitz.
Money. Most expenses are
already covered by the program, so Fassi life should not be a drain on your
wallet. When you treat yourself, a cheap dinner costs only about 50 dirhams
($4.50 U.S.), an expensive dinner 120DH ($11 U.S.). A café au lait may
cost as much as 12DH, tip included. Internet costs 7-10DH an hour. On a
typical day, you may spend a few dirhams on bus tickets, a couple on a Coke,
and five on a glass of mint tea. On average, five dollars a day is a generous
estimate for what you'll spend living in Fez ($500 U.S. total). However,
traveling out of the city on weekends will cost more. And you may want to
bring additional money for shopping ($200 if you want to go on an extravagant
shopping spree). Since you will be making many trips to the medina, you may
want extra funds to buy souvenirs and gifts. Overall, this could turn out to be
one of your cheapest Dartmouth terms! Hidden expenses and surprises are always
a possibility, so we suggest having a major credit card and Cirrus debit card
for security. A few travelers’ checks for security are a good idea too,
perhaps in Euros.
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Clothing. You won’t need
much variety in your wardrobe, so bring as little as possible. It’s hot
for part of the time, so have a couple pairs of light cotton slacks or
lightweight skirts. On the other hand, when you come, it may be cool (in the
40s, Fahrenheit) and it also gets wet. You might want to bring an umbrella or a
rain jacket and definitely a heavy sweater or winter coat; (nice) sweatshirts
and sweatpants can be useful in the house. Be prepared to layer: Moroccans
don’t necessarily heat their houses or offices in March, and it gets very
cold inside and out.
Moroccan
youths seem to especially like black Levis (or imitations), and the average
student you encounter will wear the same clothes day after day. It becomes the
identifying characteristic of a person in many cases—for example,
“Do you know my friend Mustafa; he’s the guy that wears the orange
shirt.”
Bring
only items you can hand wash to save yourself hassle. Count on doing laundry
yourself (though many families offer). Small bottles of detergent or bar soap
can be found at almost any local store (hanut). Dress
conservatively—long sleeves and long skirts—although conservative
clothing doesn’t necessarily mean dressy clothing. Most people wear
jeans and sweatshirts, and comfortable clothing is the best choice. In the
hot weather people will wear short- sleeved shirts and jeans, but you rarely
see shorts. A pair of shorts for around the house or apartment may be fine,
but be aware of the norms of your family before you take anything for
granted.
Sunglasses
and a hat are helpful, but Moroccans seldom cover their heads with anything
other than a jellaba hood or headscarf. More and more young men and laborers
now wear baseball hats, and sunglasses seem fashionable. While tourists often
strut around in shorts, short skirts, and tank tops, you are recommended to
dress conservatively. Attention from Moroccan men may be flattering at first,
but soon becomes annoying and tiresome.
When
it’s hot, students felt it was ok to where short-sleeve blouses, but they
really do need to be loose fitting or else you’ll draw unwanted
attention. Some women found it comfortable to wear jellabas in the street so as
to blend in. Remember you are staying with a family who will expect you to
conform to their way of life, to a certain extent. After a few weeks in Fes
you will be recognized as belonging to the neighborhood, especially in the
medina, and people expect you to respect their social customs. Hence, leave
tank tops at home along with the shorts, and instead bring shirts with sleeves
(t-shirts and short sleeved shirts are fine and perfect for warmer days).
Expect to
do your laundry yourself, although many families have washing machines and dry
cleaners often also offer regular washing. Detergent can be bought in any
street corner store. Dry cleaners are widely available and cheap (about 15 DH
for a pair of pants).
Furthermore,
because Morocco is dry, your clothes will get dusty and dirty, so leave your
expensive fabrics behind. You may need to dress up for a special occasion,
whether a wedding with your family or a meeting with a government official or
for a program dinner. For these events, men should bring nice pants, a shirt,
and a tie. A skirt or dress pants with a blouse or a nice sweater is
appropriate for women.
Toiletries. In addition to books
and clothing, you may need sunscreen, anti-diarrhea medicine, aspirin or
Tylenol, and cold medicine. If you take vitamins bring them. If you wear
contacts, bring plenty of supplies and perhaps even a second pair. (Likewise
for glasses.) You can buy soap, shampoo, toothpaste, and other toiletries at
the local stores, but don’t expect to find many choices. Women should
also bring plenty of feminine protection, as tampons are hard to find. If you
plan to be sexually active—which we don’t advise—bring
protection. Although many Moroccans are aware of the dangers of AIDS and
other STDs, such issues tend to be swept under the carpet in socially
conservative countries like Morocco.
Supplies. Other things to
consider packing are a travel alarm clock, paper, notebooks, pencils,
folders, and a pack of playing cards. These can be found at newsstands (along
with stamps, postcards, popular “new Islamic” books, cookbooks,
cigarettes, lighters, candy, and gum), but it can’t hurt to bring
things of your own along. You might not be able to find a package of your
favorite Papermate pens. Many students choose to bring gifts for their host
families, a much appreciated gesture. Good gifts would be little things that
hint of your home: a Dartmouth T-shirt, a picture book of the USA or your
state, paperweight, mug, souvenir alarm clock or watch, small bottle of
perfume, make-up, or even maple syrup.
Your
families will be very curious about life in the United States. They will ask
you many questions, and they will ask to see pictures of your friends and
family. Bring a few pictures of Dartmouth, your family, your friends or your
hometown. (Screen out the pictures with beer cans and boyfriends or girlfriends
in them.)
One of the most important things to pack is your
curiosity. Moroccans are known for their exquisite cuisine and hospitality, which
translates into great food and large quantities of it. Most families will push
food at you until you say shbe‘t (I’m full!).
Vegetarians may have a little difficulty avoiding
meat, which is central to most meals. For some, “vegetarian” means
“no chunks of meat,” and it will take some explaining to convince
that meat broth, for example, counts as meat. Explaining in terms of
“allergies” or “medical condition” seems to be
effective here. Try to be sensitive and flexible, and most will be happy to
accommodate you.
Moral support. Lastly, don’t
forget to bring something that makes you happy —your phone card, Bible,
book of poetry, last year’s letters from your sweetie, or what-have-you.
Bring along some items to help you through moments in which you will feel
isolated or crazy for going on this trip—whatever helps you deal with
frustrations, loneliness, and disappointments. Matt carried around a
heart-shaped stone given to him by a close friend. That, along with a book of
daily readings and Sufi poems, did wonders. Jeneen made some mixed tapes before
she left and spent hours in her room listening to music and singing to herself;
she also brought running sneakers and tried to jog every other day. Consider
your daily routines and figure out what small, easy items can help you with a
sense of wholeness and happiness.