the FSP Guidebook
the FSP in Fez, Morocco
 
Etiquette: Street and Society
The greatest problem most female students will encounter is catcalls from men on the streets. Moroccan women receive similar advances and are aware that, while extremely annoying, such attention is seldom physically threatening. The easiest way to deal with this problem is to ignore the comments and walk on confidently. However, once your Arabic is good enough, it might prove effective to stop and say, for example, “excuse me, I really don’t have an interest in talking to you,” or, to persistent men in the medina where you will be offered help to get around, “thank you, but I live here and know how to find my way around,” or even a Moroccan greeting may be enough to end the encounter. The last thing men in the streets are expecting is for you to confront their advances, and this may also take away the thrill they get by following you and speaking to you. Often, a single line will be enough for you to be left alone.

Moroccan women and men also walk with a certain ease and style that can only be understood by watching them, but this style is learnable; especially because you too will begin to feel at home and this is the key to other people accepting you in their environment.

While Moroccan women rarely walk the streets alone or at night, you will always be recognized as a foreigner and will be classified under the same category as the many European and American tourists who often walk around town alone. However, depending on the family you are living with, it is possible that your family will expect you to be home by a certain hour and be accompanied if going somewhere in the evening or at night.
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Hustlers: You will inevitably be harassed by little boys and girls called faux guides who will try to help you through the city. It is wise to immediately say no or la, shukran. If hustlers do not stop bothering you, which is often the case, do not be afraid to be firm and walk on by. Registered guides wear an official identity badge. They are pleasant and efficient, and are licensed by the government as part of a greater effort to increase the quality of tourism.

Beggars: You will be approached for money from people of all ages, children to the elderly. You are not obliged to patronize them, especially the children who ask for everything from "stilo" (pen) to "One dirham." If you would like to give something, by all means do, but be responsible and be discrete, and in any case refrain when we are traveling as a group.

Gender roles: The place women are accorded in Moroccan society has seen significant transformation in recent years. By way of example, two women were recently elected to the Moroccan Parliament (one of the women is from Fez) and classes at Morocco’s universities were once the exclusive prerogative of men but are now fully coed. In Morocco’s September 27, 2002, parliamentary elections, fully 30 seats were reserved for women by mutual agreement of all parties fielding candidates. Nevertheless, traditional attitudes among both men and women concerning the role of women are still very much in force. Public places, such as bars and most cafes, are considered inappropriate for women, and unmarried women (even if they are over 21) may have strict parental supervision. In Morocco, women often go out of the house in pairs or groups, but you will rarely find a woman on the streets by herself after dark.

Except in good hotels, women should never attempt to go to bars unaccompanied. This is partially true for cafes, too, which tend to be male-only gathering places. The more elegant pastry shop or juice-shop cafes are usually acceptable places for women, especially sitting inside or upstairs with a companion. Naturally, foreign women have a certain latitude that “respectable” Moroccan women do not. However, even this cultural license has its limitations and its price. Smoking in public by women is still considered somewhat risqué.

Intimate Relationships: Relations between men and women in Morocco differ considerably from those in America and Europe. You should try to be sensitive to these differences, as misunderstandings can lead to hurt feelings, resentment, and, occasionally, physically threatening situations. Strong, non-romantic friendships between members of the opposite sex are far less common in Morocco than in Europe, and these are generally formed and maintained within the structure of family gatherings, work, or school. The occasional couples you see walking together or in cafes are usually married or dating—a practice which is still not as common in Fez as in other major Moroccan cities.

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Should you be interested in something more than a platonic friendship, whether you are male or female, make sure you know what you’re getting into! Outside of schoolyard flirtations, much of the dating that does go on in Fez occurs with marriage as the eventual aim. Some couples, in fact, are not allowed to date until after their engagement. If you have no intention of getting married, it’s wise to make sure that the other party (and his or her family) shares your feelings.

We might also note that public displays of homosexuality are generally unacceptable in Morocco.

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Last Modified December 31, 2005
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