 Basics
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Electricity:
Some wall sockets in
Morocco are only suitable for low-voltage appliances. Check you’re your
host parents or the hotel before you plug in anything. Two-pin round plugs
(European type) are the norm. Jeneen was able to use her host mother’s
blow dryer and didn’t have to waste useful space in her backpack for
small appliances that might not work in Morocco. If you intend to bring a
computer to Fez, also bring an appropriate transformer. Most electricity in Fez
is 220v, although some areas use 110v. Power supplies for many laptop computers
automatically convert from 110v to 220v, but check before you leave the U.S.
Stephanie Saad
and Colin Grey ‘96 enjoy afternoon tea and The D at ALIF.
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Newspapers:
The International
Herald Tribune and the previous day’s edition of English newspapers
are available in most large towns and cities.
Money:
In Spring 2002 the U.S. dollar was worth
about between 11.4 and 10.1 dirhams (DH). Although most guidebooks will tell
you that you cannot buy Moroccan currency outside Morocco, Jeneen was able to
exchange some money at JFK airport, and a few dirhams proved handy for random
airport costs in Morocco.
Keep in mind that the
dirham cannot be exchanged for foreign currency and cannot be taken out of the
country, so spend all your money before you leave!
There are
many ATMs but not all work all the time. Also, the keyboard can differ from the
ones at home so make sure you know your password as numbers and as letters.
Check with your home bank about the charges for ATM transactions abroad. Credit
cards may be used in some places, but don’t expect to use them at the
corner store. They are good to carry as a backup.
Attitudes
about money in Morocco are quite different from those in the Western world.
Charity is one of the duties of all good Muslims, and a service rendered
deserves a reward, no matter how small. If someone helps you in some way, it is
customary to thank him or her by giving a few dirhams. It is also in your best
interest, economically speaking, to learn how to haggle. If you do haggle, you
will probably get a better price. However, if you want to get the best price,
go with a Moroccan who has friends in the medina.
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Telephone
Getting a
phone card from any convenience store or tele-boutique and calling home is easy
enough to do, but very expensive. Some students suggested that students buy a
cell phone here and let people call you on it. Calling out of Morocco is very
expensive, and calling in is cheaper. (Your host parents will probably not have
a landline and will just have cell phones). However, many U.S. telephone
calling plans provide an access number from Morocco and then connect to your
home number (probably your parent’s) at the same charge as though the
call were initiated in the U.S. (MCI charges about 89¢ per minute as of
2002.) The cell phones are not that costly and worth the investment and can be
used throughout Europe after your stay in Morocco. Cell phone companies are
Meditel and Maroc Telecom and are located throughout the city; keep your eye
out on weekly specials. The tele-boutiques are safe and convenient but are a
drain on your wallet because you have to feed coins continuously into the
phone. There are tele-boutiques all over the city. MCI or AT&T calling
cards work from Morocco, but only to call the US and not other countries. Be
careful to watch the clock, since the rate is about $2.50 a minute. If it is an
emergency, you can be reached at ALIF, and you can also receive a fax for a
small fee. Some host families don’t have a telephone and others may
prefer that you not use it. Most Moroccan families regard the telephone as a luxury,
and few lines have itemized billing, so any long-distance call that you
initiate may cause stress.
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| Important Phone Numbers
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| Telephone numbers and area codes change frequently, but the numbers below
are believed correct as of Fall 2002.
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The country code for Morocco is 212; the area code varies: Fez = 055, Rabat = 037, Casablanca - 022, Tangier = 039.
To dial long distance within Morocco, dial “0”, then area code followed by the number.
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| American
Chamber of Commerce (Casablanca) | (022) 311448 |
| AMIDEAST,
Rabat | (037) 726230 |
| AT&T USA Direct | 00 2110011 |
| Emergency
/Police 19 Fez airport | (055) 624800 |
| Fez
train station, ONCF | (055) 625001, 625132 |
| French
Cultural Center (Fez) | (055) 623921 |
| Hotel
Zalagh, Fez (next to ALIF) | (055) 625531 |
| King
Fahd School of Translation, Tangier | (039) 942813 |
| MCI | 00 2110012 |
| Qarawiyyin
Library, Fez | (055) 633939 |
| Royal
Air Maroc, Fez | (055) 625516 |
| TAK
Voyages (Fez Travel Agency) | (055) 624550 |
| Tangier
American Legation Museum | (039) 935317 |
| Tel.
Info 16 / Operator Assistance 12 |
| US
Consulate, Casablanca | (022) 264550 |
| US
Embassy, Rabat (037) 762265, Fax: 037-765661 | (037) 762265,
Fax: 037-765661 |
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Postal Services
The
central post office in Fez is located on the corner of Avenues Hassan II and
Mohammed V. To buy stamps, send mail, or collect packages, enter under the sign
posted on the Hassan II side of the post office which reads “Paquets et
Colis Postales.” There are also a number of branch offices around Fez on
Atlas Square, Batha Square, and Alaouite Square in Fez Jdid. Winter Hours: 8:30-12:00,
2:30-6:00; Summer Hours: 8:00-2:00
If you
know the weight of your letters or how many stamps you need, it is much easier
to buy stamps at a kiosk or newsstand around town. A three-page airmail letter
to the USA = 8.5 DH; to Europe = 6 DH. Many tabacs just sell you 7 DH for
Europe and 10 for the US. These rates are subject to change, so check with the
ALIF secretary. Bright yellow mailboxes are attached to the sides of buildings,
for instance, next to the entrance of the Central Market on Avenue Mohammed V.
There is only one box for local, domestic, and airmail. You can also leave your
stamped letters with the ALIF secretary for twice-daily mailings. You are
welcome to use Box 2136 for personal mail, which will be kept with the
secretary.
Address:
Your Name
c/o ALIF
B.P. 2136
Fez 30000
Morocco
Expect mail from the USA
to take up to 2 weeks to arrive. Students should avoid having family or friends
send electronic goods, cameras, or audiocassettes, since the customs duty
charged on such items is exorbitant and the paperwork wearying. Also, never
have cash sent to you by mail.
Photography: Although most Moroccans
are not overly sensitive to having their picture taken, ask first! Although it
may feel like it at moments, it is worth remembering that the medina is not a
Disney Theme Park. Film is widely available, especially color
print and slide film of various brands and speeds. Prices seem to vary from
shop to shop, and the film can be of questionable quality. Black and white film
is available in some shops, but there is no place to have it developed in Fez.
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Transportation
Petit taxis (bright red taxis with yellow roof racks) can save you a lot of time. It costs
7-10 DH for an average trip from the Ville Nouvelle to the medina. They are
plentiful in the Ville Nouvelle and at the edges of the Medina. There is rarely
any difficulty flagging down a taxi, and they can be found at all hours at
different taxi stands throughout the City. The presence of a passenger in a
taxi does not necessarily mean that the taxi is taken; one taxi may pick up as
many as three fares along the route, if passengers’ destinations
aren’t too out of the way. If you get into an already-occupied taxi, note
the amount on the meter as you get in. Your fare should be the amount elapsed
from getting into the taxi plus the initial charge of c. 2.8 DH. Drivers in Fez
usually use their meters without any hassle so you aren’t expected to
bargain over the price. Also, they don’t expect a tip between 8:00 a.m.
and 8:00 PM. Fares go up 50 percent at night, although only the newest meters
reflect this. Unfortunately, there is no way of telephoning for a taxi in Fez.
The City Buses are packed on some of the
principal routes during peak hours, and you should guard against pickpockets.
Buses run from 6:00 a.m. to between 8:30 and 9:00 p.m. Fares for routes
within the City are 1.80 DH, while the fare for buses that run outside city
limits is slightly more. Check at the ALIF desk for a complete update.
While grand taxis (shared taxis) cost about 20 to
50 percent more than a cross-country bus on the same route, they are worth
considering for scenic routes. Grand taxis are usually an old Mercedes Benz.
They depart when they have their full complement (usually 6) of passengers.
There are set prices between cities, but you will need to negotiate a price
with the taxi driver before you jump in, and it is advantageous to travel
with 5 of your friends for the best deal. You can also buy extra
“places” so that you are more comfortable, or the taxi leaves
sooner. In general, you can count on paying 10 DH for every 30 km. Be aware
that most highway deaths are attributed to grand taxis. Their penchant for
passing cars and trucks on blind, winding mountain roads is enough to make
anyone sick with fright. In such cases, it’s best to look at the
landscape and let the other passengers do the worrying. For location of grand
taxi stands, ask at the ALIF desk.
Cross-Country Buses: These buses are a useful
alternative to trains or grand taxis, if you are trying to get to particular
areas. Schedules may be obtained at the ALIF desk.
Trains: A rail
network of about 2,500 km. links all the major towns, and a good deal of
upgrading has occurred in recent years. For schedules and costs see
http://www.oncf.ma/. On the whole, trains are modern, comfortable, and
reliable. Most have first and second classes and some have buffet cars or a
trolley snack service (sandwiches, hot and cold drinks). On some routes, “couchettes”
(night sleepers) are available. Thieves and pickpockets are not unknown on
trains, particularly on overnight trips. Never leave your wallet, passport, or
other valuables in beside you or in the pack’s outside pockets and have
locks on all luggage zippers. There are several daily trains to Meknes (about
45 minutes), continuing on the same line to Sidi Kacem (2.5 hours), Kenitra
(3.5 hours), Sale (4 hours), Rabat (4.5 hours), and Casablanca (5.5 – 6
hours). Train to Tangier leave from Fez also with a change of trains often
necessary at Sidi Kacem. The line to Marrakech via Casablanca takes anywhere
from 8 to 11 hours, depending on the type of train. Fast trains are preferable,
as they bypass small, rural stations, thus reducing time spent en route. Train
schedules are posted at ALIF. Cost is minimal: about 90 DH for the 6-hour trip
from Fez to Tangiers.
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